The French Pleat

At first glance it looks like a tricky hair-do but after we have learnt the basic steps we found it got easier and easier each time...

Start by brushing the models hair (Making sure to check for any piercings that could get caught)

Spray the hair with Batiste dry shampoo, this prevents the hair from getting greasy and adds extra volume

Using a pin tail comb section the hair so that you have two sections at the front and the rest of the hair at the back. The front section should go from ear to ear in a straight line.

Then create a middle parting by looking at the model in the mirror and finding the middle of their head.

You are now going to begin curling the hair. All of the curls need to be towards the centre of the back of the head.

It is easier to start with the front two sections of the hair because it will mean the curls have longer to set.

Split the front two sections into smaller sections and curl them inwards, towards the back of the head.

Pin each curl with a sectioning clip.

Then move onto the back section of hair. You want to create a brick formation at the back of the head.

The middle part of the hair should have all the curls going downwards.

The sides of the head should have the barrel curls coming into the middle of the head, this will make it easier to create the shape that you want.

Once you have curled and pinned all of the hair you can start removing the sectioning clips, but not from the front sections of the hair.

Using the pin tail comb start backcombing the hair, the secret is to work the hair to the root.

Start mid- way down the hair and comb it against the natural way of the hair.

You will know when the hair has been back combed enough because it will naturally stay in place without hairspray.

Then, using a smoothing out brush gently brush the back of the hair but not so much as to remove the curls.

Brush all of the hair to the right side then using Kirby grips pin each one in a vertical line up the back of the head. To get a more fixed hairstyle cross each grip over the other so it stays more in place.

Then comes the tricky part, place your left hand face up on the back of the head.

Using your right hand, grab all of the hair and wrap it around your left hand in a shell shape.

Using your right hand again, scrape the hair tightly until the shell is pushed against the head in a neat cone.

Then get some wig clips and insert them directly into the cone and then slide them round so they fit horizontally into the hair.

It is best to put them right on the line where the head meets the cone shape, as this will make them less visible.

You can now remove the sectioning pins from the front sections of the hair.

With the front sections of the hair backcomb them forward as this will give your up- do a better shape.

Then with each side roll it around your hand (making sure it is coming inwards) then tuck it into the cone at the back of the head.

You can then adjust the cone to make it bigger or higher.

Finally you can add hairspray to keep it in place.

Once you have mastered how to do a French pleat you can begin to experiment with ways of giving that hairstyle a particular theme or idea. For example I experimented with several contrasting words and thought of ways to adapt the French pleat to fit that word.

As you can see this is in an image of the French Pleat, in Photoshop I have added two peacock feathers. This is my visual interpretation of the word eccentric. 

This is another one of my experimentations, in which I have re-sized and placed different types of flowers into the French pleat to give it a romantic feel.  By choosing a word to revolve your look around it makes it easier to come up with influences and ideas. It also helps you portray the right look to your viewers.